Unpacking Jonathan Anderson’s Vision: His Bold Debut for Dior Menswear S/S 2026

A deep dive into Anderson’s first collection for Dior - where heritage meets disruption on the Spring/Summer runway.

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My first thought about Jonathan Anderson’s S/S 2026 Dior menswear debut was the venue. It was held at Paris’ Hôtel des Invalides - a military museum - and while there were around 600 people there, it still managed to feel surprisingly considered. It had this old-school couture vibe, almost like a throwback to when houses would invite a select few for a private showing, but on a much bigger, more theatrical scale. Inside, the space was modelled after Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie, though only two paintings were on display: a still life of a vase of flowers and a punnet of wild strawberries, both by 18th-century painter Jean Siméon Chardin and on loan from the Louvre. I mean, how’s that for drama? Totally over the top, but in the best way. I loved the sheer excess of it all!

Celebrity faces included Rhianna and A$AP Rocky, Robert Patterson, Sabrina Carpenter, Joe Alwyn, Daniel Craig and many more.

The setup had the guests practically on top of the runway. Up close and personal with the models, close enough to reach out and touch them (not that anyone did, obviously). But maybe that was the intention: to let people really take in the details, because that’s where this collection seemed to truly come alive. The cuts, the textures, the subtle flourishes. You could tell the craftsmanship was meant to be seen up close.

Few can mix styles quite like Jonathan Anderson. For his Dior debut, he brought together 18th-century, almost Renaissance-style detailing with oversized silhouettes straight out of early '90s streetwear. Think: exquisite button work, delicate piping, fringing, and neckerchiefs - paired with pale straight-leg or bootcut denim, khaki trousers, and enormous knee-length shorts, complete with cargo pockets and even the odd ruffle. Some of the looks felt haphazard - thrown together, almost - but in that very intentional Anderson way. Slightly chaotic, but somehow, it all just worked.

There were also more conceptual pieces, drawing directly from the Dior archives. Anderson took inspiration from three haute couture dresses - Caprice, Cigale, and Delft - and reimagined them through a menswear lens. Clearly, he’s been doing his homework in the Dior vaults. The show opened with his take on the iconic Bar jacket, done in a rich dark green tweed with a sharp black lapel. A bold way to set the tone and a quiet flex that he knows exactly where this house came from.

There were long, chunky knitted capes, sweeping dress coats, floral waistcoats and shirts in luxe fabrics like tweed, velvet and silk. All of it was styled with that signature Anderson twist, juxtaposed against laid-back denim, high-top trainers, boat shoes or even fisherman sandals. There was a definite nod to preppy style too, with striped shirts, stripy ties, and classic cable-knit jumpers casually draped over the shoulders. It was all very layered, very eclectic - and somehow managed to feel both nostalgic and completely new.

I did try to get my head around some of the denim. It was a bit too ‘early 2000s’ for me, with those pale hues, bootcut shapes and turned-up hems. But then there were others that felt much more Jonathan: twisted hems, curved wrap details, and that off-kilter tailoring he does so well.

Some of my favourite looks were the more wearable ones - checked and striped shirts paired with ties, or that deep V-neck grey Dior logo jumper, which I now officially need in my wardrobe. And speaking of logos, they were there, but subtly. You could spot them on the ties, on the backs of coat collars, or on the sides of sweatpants. A quiet flex, rather than a shout.

Detailing is definitely where Jonathan Anderson shines. From the stripy socks paired with fisherman sandals, to the wrap-around high-neck bow ties, cropped blazers, intricate buttonwork, modern cuts, and, of course, the incredible accessories. It was clear every piece was carefully thought through.

The fashion crowd loved it too, with Jonathan earning a well-deserved standing ovation. I can easily see this collection doing well commercially; there’s enough wearable, stylish pieces that fashion fans will want to snap up.

All in all, I think he nailed it. Now, I’m seriously excited to see what he does with Dior Womenswear next season. If this debut is anything to go by, Jonathan Anderson’s Dior journey is just getting started - and it’s one to watch closely.

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